The Tramping Report

Big Tops Hut in the Koropuku

Pen sketch by Honora of Big Tops Hut (yes, that's a vacuum cleaner)

I first found my way into the Koropuku valley and visited Big Tops Hut in 1993.

The hut, and the valley, were sadly neglected and lucky to see a single visitor in a year. Access to the hut was completely overgrown and even 50 metres away it was impossible to tell you were close.

The Department of Conservation was quite clear that they wanted to remove it, and would do so as soon as they had funding for the task. The fact the hut was in near perfect condition had no bearing on it.

View of Mt Alexander and Lake Kaurapataka en route to Big Tops in the Koropuku valley

The Koropuku valley is unrivalled in Arthurs Pass National Park for its natural beauty, aside from the additional appeal that its feeling of remoteness gives. And the natural barriers that give it that remoteness are awesome and sublime.

I couldn't believe if people that loved the wilderness knew what it was like there that they wouldn't want to go there. I wanted to save Big Tops to make sure it remained a possibility for other people.

This brought me to a complete change in attitude. Before this I'd been one of the many that reflexively complained about DoC not doing this or not doing that. But I knew if Big Tops Hut was to be saved it was up to me to do it.

To start I cut back the vegetation, cleared the access, cleaned the hut up and carried out the rubbish of an earlier generation of trampers.

Next I set to publicising Big Tops to try to get people going in there again. And interest really did increase and the increase in visitors showed in the hut book within a relatively short time.

In the Koropuku access gully

But I didn't want to just leave it at that. I believed then that individual efforts weren't enough. I hoped one of the local tramping clubs would informally adopt Big Tops to keep access to it open and use their influence to put its case to DoC. So in 1996 I wrote a short piece for the Christchurch Tramping Club newsletter, referring to the club's past connection to the hut. However I hadn't realised there was strong opposition among older members to club involvement in such commitments, and I was treading on toes without knowing it. Such errors as are made in a spirit of enthusiasm and the best of intentions.

This is what I wrote:

Big Tops Hut & the CTC

Christchurch Tramping Club’s connection with the Big Tops Hut in the Koropuku valley goes back a long way.

At one time there was only a tiny Big Tops Biv at the head of the Koropuku Stream. Then when that great tramping benefactor, the New Zealand Forest Service, decided a hut was needed it fell to Ray Forsyth to select a suitable site for it. The condition of Big Tops today is proof that Ray was good at his job. Ray is now a member of the club and spends his time in the hills for pleasure.

The new hut became a Mecca for the more adventurous CTC members. There was even a suggestion at one time that it be renamed “McSweeney Manor” in honour of the frequent visits by then keen young CTC tramper Jerry McSweeney.

Official club trips didn’t go there though. There was even a deliberate move to keep people out. A note in the hut book in 1973 advised people to “…keep it unknown by not talking too much about its position.”

Over the next few years the hut book was dominated by the names of CTC notables of the time: McSweeney, Jones, Visser, Lassche, Rainsbury, Sheppard, Lewis, Hay, Cox, Dephoff, Caldwell, Saggers.

However it seems they all obeyed their instructions and kept quiet about the place. And this had a downside. As the hardier CTC trampers of that era began to focus on other life interests, the appearance of club names in the hut book came to an end. The trampers who moved to the forefront of CTC activities had a blind spot for Big Tops, rather than a soft spot. For ten years not a single name associated with the club was written in the hut book.

Even visits by non CTC trampers dwindled. There was one year when not a single name appeared in the hut book. The ribbonwood and harakeke grew taller, kiwis whistled at night unheard and the deer rubbed their velvet off against the corner of the hut undisturbed.

Rumours circulated among trampers that the track had grown over entirely and access was no longer possible. In discussions Big Tops seemed to acquire an almost mythical lost to the world aura. This was helped by reports that even DoC didn’t know where it was.

A story did the rounds that DoC, eager to claim any revenue due from their great NZ Forest Service inheritance, sent in two parties of workers to put a sign in the hut advising of the fees that were now payable. Neither party could find the place and eventually a helicopter was used to do the job. The signs duly arrived by air and were affixed to the wall but I’m not sure what return DoC hoped for to cover their costs.

Whatever, this incident increased the rumour that Big Tops had been reclaimed by the wilderness and that a journey to it involved major difficulty.

So what is the truth?

Well, a lot of people in the CTC know it now. Since my first trip in there in 1993 thirty-five people have been to Big Tops with me, on five different trips. Seven have been more than once. This club once again has the expertise on the area.

Routefinding into the valley can be a real difficulty. The descent down the access gully would intimidate some. The alternative bush route is fine but requires good bush navigation skills. Then when you get to within 50 metres of the hut, if you’re not confident using your map, you could still spend a night out (like many others) and come out with a story that you’d rather not tell.

Been to Big Tops: Susan, Honora, Ilan, Mike & Kerrie

As a postscript, what I actually learned from this experience was that individuals just getting in and doing things have a powerful effect. They actually inspire others all over the place to get involved too. And even more people take up the baton arguing in support.

The Real Mottram Peaks

Graham Kates now has a photo of the real Mottram Peaks, for his Arthurs Pass Mountaineering website.

Jeremy Parker got this shot of the peaks from the large basin under Echo Col.

Jeremy's photo is a good one. It makes me want to get back up there.

The basin where Jeremy took this would be good to camp in for a couple of days of summer peak bagging. Then finish by crossing one of the high cols in a two day circuit back to Klondyke Corner in the Waimak. Alternatively, any of the peaks could be reached as a day trip from Klondyke.

The main peak there is Gizeh, the high point in this skyline below.

 

I'm also keen to try out the other route to the Mottrams recommended by John Pascoe in his climbing route guide in the original Arthurs Pass National Park handbook. That one follows the spur up from the junction of the AntiCrow River and the Waimakariri. We might be able to make a circuit out of it by descending a scree into Greenlaw Creek.

When we did the Mottrams in December 2005 (see The Mottram Peaks) we climbed a scree in the head of the AntiCrow and went down a scree descending north to beech forest in the upper Waimakariri. 

That was a really nice jaunt. 

Weetbix on the Motatapu Track

I can't imagine a lot of people are busting to walk the "Motatapu Track". I put it in quotes because it isn't really a track, even in the loose NZ context, but rather just a roughly sketched route through some high-ish tussocky hills between Wanaka and Arrowtown. It isn't even in the Motatapu valley, only near it.

Sadly, a young Australian woman decided to give it a go. I don't want to add to the poor thing's misfortune so I won't dwell on why or if she should have, or her subsequent situation.

But I suspect that all the publicity this "arduous" track has had will probably lure a good number of NZ trampers to "test themselves" up against its "challenging difficulties".

NZ has so much to offer, this "track" doesn't merit getting onto the front page of anyone's wish list.

But you can decide for yourself.

Here's a link to a slide show of an Otago Tramping & Mountaineering Club trip through it:

http://otmc.co.nz/archives/images/Motatapu2008/index.html

This is a link to a Department of Conservation brochure:

http://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreation/tracks-and-walks/otago/wanaka-area/motatapu-track/

And here's a link to some info about it on Matthew Walker's Tramping.co.nz website:

http://tramper.co.nz/?2795

Oops, not the real Mottram Peaks

I laughed when I saw Graham Kates' pic of the "Mottram Peaks" on his Arthurs Pass Mountaineering website.

The real Mottrams, of course, are on the ridge on the south side of the upper Waimakariri valley between the AntiCrow River and Greenlaw Creek. Both the 1789 m and the 1751 m summits are fantastic viewpoints.

They can be climbed as a day trip from the Klondyke Corner carpark just past the Waimakariri River bridge on SH73. Just go up the AntiCrow to its head and ascend the scree direct to the ridge (Take care in winter and spring as that slope would be avalanche suspect if loaded with snow from the nor'west).

But when I saw Graham's photo I knew instantly he'd got it wrong. I think I'd be able to place most summer ridgeline photos taken in the park fairly quickly and most, like this one, without consulting the map.

Have a look for yourself.

It's easy to recognise the terrain in the photo on the map of the western side of the Jordan Stream valley.

But I am a bit puzzled how Graham could have been confused about what he was looking at because he seems to have been right about where he said he was when he took the photo (above Jordan Saddle).

I'm delighted to have this opportunity though, especially when I think of all the people who've suffered misfortune in the Arthurs Pass area and had it added to by one of Graham's public kickings.

Should we pay to be rescued?

At least once a year, usually around this time, NZ newspapers run a story about the costs of rescuing trampers and mountain climbers. The Timaru Herald was first off the blocks with the topic this holiday season with the headline: "Mt Cook search costs to remain public".

The item is well balanced and the reporters did a good job in getting all the information together. Probably the only thing missing was a comment from the Federated Mountain Clubs.

However it did prompt the usual set of responses from people who write like angry drunks.

If you scrolled on past them you would come to my contribution:

"So many cases of people injured or overdue from tramping or climbing in the back country achieve sensational treatment in the news media. If you forgot the huge numbers of New Zealanders that enjoy outdoor recreation, you might think it was a common occurrence.

People involved with search and rescue like the publicity too, as they enjoy the rare kudos from what they do and want to ensure politicians keep making funding available.

However this publicity does generate public concern.

I wonder how this would change if the same reporting was given to incidents of similar severity that occurred working around the home, or on the sports field.

ACC statistics I've seen list rugby, soccer, netball, motorsport and snowsports as the top five for recreation accident expense. And I do often read of DIY and urban based recreation tragedies in Coroner's reports, that never gained headlines at the time."

It would be nice if the Timaru Herald did publish it. HoweverI don't think Timaru is a very big town for mountain recreation even if it is the city closest to Mt Cook/Aoraki National Park, so I don't expect it to change a lot of minds there.

Ed Hillary on Everest

The Christchurch Press printed this photo of Ed Hillary on its front page on 12 Jan. It was taken by Alfred Greg high on Everest, when Ed and Tenzing were going for the summit. I like it because it features Ed in dynamic mode. (click it to see a larger version) I hadn't come across this image before. I hope it gets made available in a better medium than newsprint sometime.

I was thinking today when it was that I first learned about Ed Hillary and Everest. For my tweIth birthday, a few months after my father died, I was given The Ascent of Everest. This was the book written by expedition leader Colonel John Hunt. I read it through and I can remember studying the photos intently trying to understand what it was like being there. I can't remember the text giving what I needed.

Here's another link to a particularly good obituary article from Time:  http://www.time.com/time/world/article/0,8599,1702543,00.html  

Ed's funeral was today. The country will be back to its routine again tomorrow.

Ed's gone

 

'Big Ed' Hillary, the man that raised the bar for heroes, is gone.

The mainstream newsmedia obituary that appealed most to me was on Fox News: http://www.foxnews.com/story/0,2933,321906,00.html

New Zealand Prime Minister Helen Clark also says it well:

http://www.scoop.co.nz/stories/PA0801/S00074.htm

Tribute to Sir Edmund Hillary, a New Zealand icon Friday, 11 January 2008, 11:43 am Press Release: New Zealand Government

Rt Hon Helen Clark
Prime Minister of New Zealand

Prime Minister Helen Clark said today that the passing of Sir Edmund Hillary is a profound loss to New Zealand.

“My thoughts are with Lady Hillary, Sir Edmund’s children, wider family, and close friends at this sad time,” Helen Clark said.

“Sir Ed described himself as an average New Zealander with modest abilities. In reality, he was a colossus. He was an heroic figure who not only ‘knocked off’ Everest but lived a life of determination, humility, and generosity.

“The legendary mountaineer, adventurer, and philanthropist is the best-known New Zealander ever to have lived. But most of all he was a quintessential Kiwi. He was ours - from his craggy appearance and laconic style to his directness and honesty. All New Zealanders will deeply mourn his passing.

“Sir Ed’s 1953 ascent of Mt Everest brought him world-wide fame. Thereafter he set out to support development for the Sherpa people of the Himalayas. His lifetime’s humanitarian work there is of huge significance and lasting benefit.

“Sir Ed was not one to bask idly in celebrity. He drew on his international prestige to highlight issues and values which he held dear. His enduring commitment to and respect for the Sherpa people reflects the best of what we as New Zealanders can contribute, from our small developed nation helping another less privileged one.

“Sir Edmund established the Himalayan Trust in the early 1960s and worked tirelessly until his death to raise funds and build schools and hospitals in the mountains.

“The legacy of Sir Edmund Hillary will live on. His exploits continue to inspire new generations of New Zealanders, as they have for more than half a century already,” Helen Clark said.

Hawdon hut replaced

The new Hawdon hut has been complete for a few months now. DoC hadn't formally announced it before now as they were waiting for their office people to complete the paperwork.

However it's now been announced. See this article in the Christchurch Press : http://www.stuff.co.nz/thepress/4336534a6047.html

Do take care of this one folks. Remember the previous one was burned down by a fool dumping hot ash from the wood burner under the side of the hut.

See this map for the new hut's location.

The Ben More Range - a big hill

There are some good things to be said about a walk on the Big Ben Range.

One is that there's an 800 metre climb to get onto it, and once up there the ridges are long so you need to walk briskly to complete any circuit.  You're guaranteed to get some exercise.

Also there are good views from the top of the range. The views are all of things a long way off and you'll need a telephoto lens and probably a tripod to impress people back home. But when you're up there, there's a sense of wide openness that's hard to fit in a camera.

Another is that when the higher mountains are stormy with nor'westerlies, the Ben More Range is usually clear. It might be windy, even windy enough to fling stones at you but probably not rain on you too.

But none of these were part of our decision to go there.

Honora wanted to do a day trip with the Peninsula Tramping Club. And as it is with clubs, their calendar said they would run a trip to the Ben More Range today. So that's where we went.

Three carloads of us headed off, over Porters Pass, and turned off onto a gravel road to the south. We travelled past Lake Lyndon and parked by a dis-used airstrip, marked on the map.

This was a handy place for our circuit. Our route was up onto the end of one spur, along to the main range, over the Ben More formal summit, then back along another spur and down to the cars again.

It was a congenial group. People could wander along in their own thoughts, without intrusion. And that suited me today. Previously I'd only done trips on this side of the range with the CTC. I remembered the style of those trips, and I enjoyed being with a group without the unpleasant competitiveness and point-scoring that the Christchurch Tramping Club is notorious for.

 

A Night on Mt Aicken

It was my fourth year tramping before I climbed Mt Aicken at Arthurs Pass. I hadn't climbed it before then because I couldn't see anything special about it to interest me (of the Arthurs Pass peaks only Mt O'Malley seemed to have less going for it).

To make it special, I climbed it on the shortest day of the winter in 1975. It did make it special, and it now stands out more clearly to me than my first time on any of the other easy Arthurs Pass summits.

I also discovered Mt Aicken really was a worthwhile place to go to.

In mid winter 1995 I suggested to Simon Hassall we go up and sleep out in the open, right on the summit. That fitted his style and he couldn't say no. Sitting up in our sleeping bags on the summit we could see the lights of the Bealey. They were watching "the game". We were living real life.

Honora and I talked about how we were going to best use the guaranteed anticyclone after weeks of dodgy weather. I wanted to sleep out under the stars, Honora had never been up Mt Aicken, It was mid winter...

Lake Pearson on the road to Arthurs Pass. Always picturesque, often stunning.

The advantage of an afternoon ascent for a night out was that we could drive to Arthurs Pass during the daytime and see the countryside at its best. There were high snow banks alongside the road over Porters Pass and many family groups were out tobogganing.

At Arthurs Pass we stopped in at the Lassche's cafe for lunch before our climb.

The snow was deep and frozen around the village. At this time of year the frost lasts all day where the sun doesn't reach in the deep valley. The footbridge and the first part of the 'Great Walk' style track to the Punchbowl Falls were slippery with ice.

We turned uphill on the Mt Aicken track. For a while we were following the footprints of others in the snow. But eventually they had turned back. The snow was knee deep on the ground and hung heavily on branches.

The snow had fallen onto bare rocks or frozen old snow. This made the footing slippery underneath and we took our time.

Honora selecting her mattress of snow on Mt Aicken

Above the bushline we came to a shoulder on the spur that had enough of a flat area for us to camp on. The sun had already gone down behind Mt Rolleston.

We used snow shovels to create a level platform to sleep on and a wall to give some shelter from the light breeze.

We cooked tea sitting up in our sleeping bags, and warm mugs of soup did double duty warming our fingers too.

Soon we were snuggled down and and looking at the sky crowded with bright stars. It wasn't long before I saw a meteorite streak across. Then another, and another, from every part of the sky. I saw the Southern Cross and Pointers, so I measured 4 1/2 times and down from the long axis, just to make sure the South Pole was in its proper place. One bright star to the south twinkled red and blue like a galactic police car. The Milky Way turned as I watched...

In the morning the peaks across the valley brightened with a pink tint. Then the first sun touched Rolleston and rapidly spread downwards.

Dressing for the day after breakfast in bed on Mt Aicken

We lay there watching the sun slowly bringing life back to the world. Only when the day was fully unfolded did we start into our leisurely breakfast.

The sun came over the ridge behind us and brought us warmth, but it was also a reminder we had work to do and got us packing.

The snow on the slopes above our camp was still deep and soft.  It was warm work climbing.

I only went as far as the first bump on the main ridgeline, but Honora went on to claim the summit of Mt Aicken.

Far below Mt Aicken is the broad valley of the Waimakariri.

A young man from Greymouth was up for the day. He was looking all around, asking questions and talking about his plans for future climbs. Everywhere I looked I already had memories of being there. The mysteries slip away one by one.  It's a sad thing to lose the excitement of the unknown.

I started down and eventually Honora caught up, returning from her summit. The valley below darkened again. The frost was intense when we emerged at the riverside.

After changing, we stopped in at Oscars Haus (the "wobbly kea") for a delicious roast dinner. A group from the tramping club had called in there to settle up their costs after a session on ice axe practice at Temple Basin. There were some good friends among them but when they'd gone it was good to quietly finish off our great weekend together in the snow.