Rethink on snow anchors

What impacted me most about the tragedy resulting in four deaths on Mt Tasman in December 2003, was that it involved two of the highest regarded guides in the country. That had to put industry standard alpine safety techniques under suspicion.

The Coroners court had the same view and asked the NZ Mountain Guides Association and the NZ Mountain Safety Council to look into whether current practices with snow anchors in New Zealand were adequate.

Don Bogie carried out this research on behalf of the Mountain Safety Council. For a copy of the report go to:

http://www.mountainsafety.org.nz/assets/images/Snow%20Anchors0705.pdf

The report is extremely detailed in it's recommendations for changes to current practice with snow anchors. It covers snow types, the design of snow stakes and their associated connection systems (wires/tapes), anchor placement and belay position.

Anyone who's involved in travelling in alpine terrain with a rope needs to read it. You're likely to find that beliefs you've trusted your life to have not stood up to examination. And it's likely you've only surivived so far purely by luck. Your anchors have not been subjected to the sort of fall that you've been using them for.

Also make sure you quiz anyone you go into the mountains with whether they're familiar with all the detail of the report. Don't trust your life with someone that thinks they know it all already.

And most important, publicly show up anyone who's leading others or giving instruction before they've taken it all on board.